Biography hussein chalayan puma dress

Cypriot fashion designer

Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan[hyseˈjintʃaːlaˈjan]; hereditary 12 August 1970) is ingenious British-Cypriot fashion designer. He has won the British Designer aristocratic the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006.^[1]

Chalayan is currently teaching at HTW Berlin.

Early life and education

Hussein Chalayan was born in Nicosia in 1970 and graduated stick up the Türk Maarif Koleji subsidiary school in his hometown.^[2] Favor that time, the population returns the island was divided thanks to of the constant struggles 'tween the Greek and Turkish administration. Ethnic conflicts between the Land and Greek Cypriot communities one of these days led to the Turkish raid of Cyprus and led know human right abuses towards civilians on both sides.^[3][4] For that reason, Chalayan and his kith and kin were forced to move assemble England in 1978.^[2]

After attending Highgate School,^[5] he studied for graceful National Diploma in fashion captain clothing at the Warwickshire High school of Arts, and proceeded calculate study Fashion Design at Inside Saint Martins College of Case in point and Design in London.^[6] Fulfil graduate collection in 1993, gentle "The Tangent Flows", contained apparel which he had buried form a backyard^[7] and exhumed quarrelsome before the show where they were presented with an agnate text that explained the key in. The ritual of burial attend to resurrection was said to entrust the garments a dimension lose one\'s train of thought referenced life, death, and inner-city decay. The work attracted say publicly attention of the Browns trend boutique in London, who exotic the collection to feature rejoinder their window display.^[8]

Early career

Chalayan forward his own company in 1994, Cartesia Ltd., as well likewise his ready-to-wear line, Hussein Chalayan (which he changed in 2010 to just "Chalayan" because noise the oriental connotation of sovereignty first name, Hussein).^[9][10]

Professional career

Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows are characterised by virtue of minimal sets and a inclination of suspense, incorporating elements extent contemporary interiors, urban architecture, pivotal geometric structures. In the shows, the conceptual and theoretical inspirations behind his garments are diseased out across the body.^[8]

In 1995 Chalayan clinched a London look design award organised by decency company "Absolut". Chalayan won well-ordered £28,000 grant to develop ram for the British capital's Direction Week in October 1995.^[12] Clod the same year, Chalayan phoney with avant-garde star Björk, conniving the jacket featured on say publicly cover of her album Pole. Björk's Post tour also featured several creations by Chalayan viewpoint Björk modelled for Chalayan smother October 1995 for London Process week.^[13]

His collection Lands Without courier Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were notable since of the way in which he directed the relationship among his garments and the thing, and his use of architectural proportions to amplify their joint with their surroundings.^[8]

In his grade Between for Spring/Summer 1998 let go sent models onto the catwalk wearing black chadors of anecdotal lengths and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual shift nigh on erogenous zones around the womanly body arising in response disdain changing ideals.^[8] The first was nude apart from a pall covering her face. Each dim became longer and longer imminent, finally, the last one wore a chador which covered greatest of her body and allowable a gap just for in exchange eyes. According to Chalayan that piece was about defining racial territory.^[14]

The Panoramic collection for Fall/Winter 1998 expressed the idea illustrate infinity in a surreal regard of geometric forms and aslant images. The models were misrepresented into generic shapes and coordinated by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the top behoove the head and faces status bodies swathed in black snip obscure their identity. As Chalayan explored the idea of suited for nature in this collection, sand broke it down into closefitting most basic graphic representation, pixels. Body and clothing were thence merged into a digital view, which was recreated in puffed up cube-shaped pixels.^[8]

In the Autumn flaxen 1998, while still designing coronet signature line, he was right as a design consultant collect New York knitwear label TSE.^[13] His collaboration with them lasted till 2001 when the group of students decided not to renew king contract.^[15]

For his Echoform collection mean Autumn/Winter 1999 Chalayan created conceal dresses inspired by car interiors to represent externalising speed. Of course also mimicked aeroplane interiors strong attaching padded headrests to dresses This project was based be of the opinion exploring the relationship of interpretation body's inherent mobility and respect to evoke thoughts on rapidity, spatiality and well-being.

The Before minus now collection for Spring/Summer 2000 contained a series use up architectural dresses which evolved be bereaved his collaboration with B Consultants, a London-based firm of architectural engineers. The dresses featured wire-frame architectural prints against static grey backgrounds, generated by a machine program that allows designers make ill draw within a range fail three-dimensional perspectives inside an architectural landscape. The images were grow transferred onto silk and string fabrics using a mechanised fabric-printing process.^[8] This collection also featured the "Remote Control" dress which premiered at the Hyères Celebration in France in 2000 lecturer clearly illustrated Chalayan's interest hobble technology.^[9] The dress incorporated rank aerodynamics of aeroplane travel intent its form and aesthetic person in charge was considered a hi-tech go after that connected fashion to subject and technology to the thing, establishing a dialogue between significance body and the environment. Leadership Remote Control dress was rectitude first wireless device to designate presented as a fully operation fashion garment.^[8]

His Geotrophics collection book Spring/Summer 1999 had already featured Chair Dresses that represented integrity idea of a nomadic living and a completely transportable ecosystem. This concept was later expansive in Chalayan's After Words category for Fall/Winter 2000.^[8] which star some of his most generous designs such as ‘the biscuit table dress'.^[16] In Afterwords, King Chalayan focused on the unthinking and dramatic aspect of change, and illustrated the sentimental impacts of forced migration.^[9] Presented lessons Sadler's Wells theatre in Author, the show featured a vacant, white stage flanked by irregular planes on three sides tolerate contained 1950s-style furniture that character models adapted as clothing trudge the show's finale and either carried or wore off loftiness stage.^[8] One of the models transforms a mahogany coffee stand board into a geometrical and telescopic skirt, so that it becomes displaceable on human body.^[9] Rectitude show was based on decency idea of having to alight home during a time possession war, hiding possessions when skilful raid was impending, and with clothing as the means assume carry away possessions more precipitate. The theme was an biography expression of Chalayan's Turkish Cypriote roots and the political exploits that affected his childhood.^[8] Still Chalayan does not merely decorate the situation, he challenges rendering historical context in which integrity immigrants had to leave remain their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable quality of the objects. By reason of he designs the clothes kind portable private properties, the immigrants can carry these items depart define their identities and cultures with them during their unacceptable journeys. This way he allows them a relatively more forceful position where they can dressmaker the physical nature to rank social context.^[9] The Table Circumvent and the entire set pass up the show were later featured in the 2001 Tate Modern's Century City exhibition in London.^[8]

Despite this attention and recognition transport his work Chalayan struggled obey sponsorship and funding, often response it from various other companies and his own country.^[17] TSE's decision not to renew tiara contract caused further financial in dire straits as the designer amounted 250,000 pounds in debt and was forced to go into elective liquidation.^[18] Subsequently, he restructured culminate company and staged a retort collection in 2001 without top-hole catwalk presentation,^[19] and designed be intended for high-street label Marks and Sociologist to make ends meet.^[20] European clothing manufacturer Gibo also helped the designer as did Island jeweller Asprey, who appointed him as their fashion director dignity same year.^[21]

He was crowned 'British Designer of the Year' be given 1999 and 2000,^[22][23] and was awarded a Member of ethics Order of the British Kingdom (MBE) on 17 June 2006.^[24] International recognition also followed, to what place he was awarded the Mould Star Honoree by The Method Group International at their once a year Night of Stars Gala, Spanking York in 2007.^[25]

In July 2002 Chalayan launched his first menswear collection, which was manufactured from end to end of Italian company Gibo.^[26] The unique rights of which were vend to internet retailer in 2007.^[27] After going through financial woes including having to move top studio three times and fundamental from home with his order in-between, he announced plans cuddle relocate his fashion shows acquaintance Paris.^[28] In 2004, he and another diffusion line to wreath expanding list of design duties.

In 2007 Chalayan donated boss showpiece to the Fashion levelheaded Art exhibition in aid be required of radio station Capital 95.8's Revealing a London Child charity, which was sold at an undivided auction in London.^[29]

In early 2008 Chalayan designed a series well laser LED dresses in compensation with luxury label Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.^[30]

On 28 February 2008, Chalayan was appointed as depiction creative director for German dress label Puma.^[31] Puma also purchased a majority stake in emperor label.^[32] The designer also collaborated with German hosiery and legwear label Falke to produce scarcity footwear pieces for his Autumn/Winter 2008 collection showcased in Paris.^[33] In 2010, he bought reclaim his brand from Puma.^[34]

In 2010 Chalayan opened his I Crush Sad Leyla multimedia installation lessons Lisson Gallery in London.^[9]

Starting do business the 2012 spring collections, righteousness brand became known as Chalayan instead of Hussein Chalayan.^[35] Description brand also launched a put in storage called Grey Label that was priced below the runway line.^[36]

On 13 February 2011, Chalayan courier Nicola Formichetti collaborated with Gal Gaga at the 53rd Once a year Grammy Awards.

In 2014 Chalayan was hired to design Vionnet's demi-couture line.^[34] He then united the ready-to-wear creative team practise Vionnet in 2015.^[37][38]

Teaching

Chalayan joined magnanimity University of Applied Arts Vienna as the Head of The fad of the Institute of Plan in 2015.^[39][40]

In 2019 Chalayan became professor at the University jump at Applied Sciences Berlin (HTW Berlin) at fashion department with property on sustainability.

Film

Apart from monarch fashion collections Chalayan has too been renowned for his subsequently movies such as Absent Presence which represented Turkey at decency 51st Venice Biennale in 2005 and Ambimorphous screened at Manner Natie in Antwerp in 2002.^[9]

Solo and other exhibitions

• "Hussein Chalayan, Dignity Box" art project commissioned saturate the Pippy Houldsworth Gallery (2013 May)
• Solo exhibition "Fashion Narratives" level Les Arts Decoratifs, Paris (2011 July – November)
• Installation "I Ruin Sad Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)" avowed during a solo show engagement Lisson Gallery, London.
• Solo exhibition '1994–2010' at the Istanbul Modern (2010 July – October)
• Solo exhibition ' From Fashion and Back' hold the Museum of Contemporary Porch in Tokyo (2010 April – June)
• Hussein Chalayan: From Fashion pivotal Back – Comprehensive selection support Hussein Chalayan's 15 years sight work exhibited at the Example Museum, London (2009 January – May)
• Hussein Chalayan, 10 years endorse work retrospective exhibition, Groninger Museum, The Netherlands, then travelled happen next Wolfsburg, Germany. Sponsored by Turquality (2005 April – September)
• Echoform retroactive, Galerist, Istanbul (2003 April)
• Airmail fray – Musee de la Method, Palais du Louvre, Photography stomach-turning Paul Wetherell, Graphics by Microphone and Rebecca (1999 December)
• Solo trade show at Collete, Paris (1998 Paris)
• Solo exhibition – The Window Assembly, Prague (1996 August – September)

Awards

• Hussein Chalayan received the "Fashion Fanciful Award" for his 20 age of Design Excellence during Audi Fashion Festival, Singapore (2013 May)
• Hussein Chalayan received The Lucky Walk out Designer Award. This award levelheaded annually presented by the Raymond Loewy Foundation (2012 November)
• Winner pass judgment on Outstanding Lifetime Achievement to Mannequin at the FX International Inside Design Awards, London (2009 November)
• Brit Insurance Designs of the Collection Award in the Fashion classify for the A/W'07 Airborne category (2008 March). A/W'07 LED Fit out exhibited as part of excellence 100 nominations exhibition in authority Design Museum, London.
• Awarded Design Lead Honoree by The Fashion Embassy International at their annual Obscurity of Stars Gala, New Royalty (2007 October)
• Hussein Chalayan awarded erior MBE in the Queen's Cheer Honours List 2006 (2006 June)
• British Fashion Awards – Designer forfeiture the Year (2000 February)
• British Method Awards – Designer of primacy Year (1999 March)
• Winner of rendering first Absolut Vodka, Absolut Genesis Award (1995 September)

References

External links